After seeing a little bit of buzz on the internets and in the strobist community about this flash I finally decided to take the plunge and picked one up on Amazon for $63. The price can’t be beat for a cheap off camera flash with ONLY manual controls and built in optical slave and PC sync port.
To start off, this flash is an almost exact external clone of a Canon 580EX II flash (with some bits from the original 580EX mixed in), but its definitely much cheaper plastic and some of the features are just molded into the plastic. The battery door for example has no locking mechanism like the real 580EX II. The tilt and rotating head also does not have a locking mechanism and what appear to be rubberized buttons are just molded features in the plastic. Having said that, the clicks for each position are pretty positive, but only time will tell if they stay that way. A couple features that are pretty nice are the metal foot and a built in optical slave (wish Canon would put one in any of their flashes). There are two modes for the slave, (S1)triggers on the first flash, and (S2) triggers after a pre-flash on a TTL system. The PC port is pretty standard, but is in the place where the external battery pack screw mount would normally be. It does seem to support the same connector as the Canon CP-E4 battery pack, or YN’s own clone of that. It has the same 14mm pull out diffuser and white catch light bounce card as the 580EX II.
Now to the somewhat unintuitive controls of the flash. The rear panel is just an array of LEDs that serves multiple functions that are explained below.
We’ll start from left to right. The first button is the beep confirmation. You can turn beep confirmation on/off to let you know when the flash is fully recycled and ready for the next shot. However, a long press on the button will turn on/off the power saving standby feature. The red LED underneath the “Pilot” button indicates if the mode is on or off. When the light is on, power saving is “off.” Not quite obvious.
Then you have MODE. Mode cycles between M, S1, S2. M is the only mode where the PC port works. S1 is optical slave that triggers on the first flash. S2 is optical slave triggering after the pre-flash of a TTL system.
The ZOOM +/- buttons control the motorized zooming of the head. This is indicated by the row of LEDs and a Zoom LED (which is always on). The motor is surprisingly quiet.
Now here comes the slightly confusing part. To control the power, you have 4 way navigator buttons with a center button that seems to “exit” from any changes. The zoom scale LEDs are used to indicate the chosen power level with Zoom = 1/128 power and 105 = 1/1 power. The left right buttons control 1/128 to 1/1 power. The up and down buttons control 1/8 STOP (EV) increments (not power level) and are indicated with a blinking LED that also uses the zoom scale. Below is the range of controls:
Zoom | 24 | 28 | 35 | 50 | 70 | 80 | 105 |
-3/8 | -1/4 | -1/8 | 0 | +1/8 | +1/4 | +3/8 | +1/2 |
If you’re interested in how the above images were shot, see the setup below. I used a Nikon SB-28 @ 1/1 power with Honl 1/8” grid bounced off the wall camera left and a flag to block spill onto the black paper background. The YN560 was used to light itself, bounced into a silver reflector clamped to the lightstand @ 1/64 power zoomed to 105mm. A flag (cardboard box) was used to keep the reflector light from spilling onto the background.
Six months in, there have been enough reports of dead or dodgy YN-560s that I cannot in good faith recommend this flash. IMO, if they would put $5 more into build quality and tweak the interface, they could have (or, could have had) a real winner.
Posted by: high def optometry | 07/23/2012 at 11:04 AM